You need to run 2 wires to the back door to connect the motor to. See the Door hinge page for info on removal of the fuse box and trim. Just run the wires through with the rest of the bundle, I used a short piece of coat-hanger wire with a loop in the end to pull the 2 wires through. It proved impossible to push the stranded wires through. |
Here is the motor mounted, see Electric window maintenance for info on removing the door panels. Strip the black protective cover off the last 8" of the 2 wires and cut the connector off the end. The only way I could get the motor to work was by tying into the circuit for the rear door, I wasn't about to get into that rats nest behind the dash. |
My 240 turbo came with remote locks as a part of the alarm system but what good is every lock on the car unlocking remotely except mine? Here's a quick $15 fix. Actually I'm not sure on the price I got a belly pan, the lock motor and some electrical connectors for $25 so I'm guessing what it will cost. |
Here's the lock motor, one off any door will work, just undo the 2 screws (arrows) and flip the mount so it looks like this. |
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Here is the motor mounted, see Electric window maintenance for info on removing the door panels. Strip the black protective cover off the last 8" of the 2 wires and cut the connector off the end. The only way I could get the motor to work was by tying into the circuit for the rear door, I wasn't about to get into that rats nest behind the dash. |
You need to run 2 wires to the back door to connect the motor to. See the Door hinge page for info on removal of the fuse box and trim. Just run the wires through with the rest of the bundle, I used a short piece of coat-hanger wire with a loop in the end to pull the 2 wires through. It proved impossible to push the stranded wires through. |
If you used the same color wire for both and (like me) forgot to mark them, put a meter on them to ID which is which. I ran the wires along the bottom of the door, taped just below the access hole. I figured it may keep the wire out of the window regulator, probably unnecessary but what the heck. |
Splice into the wires for the back door. I only use solder and shrink tube if possible, if it is impossible to get the shrink tube on, a good wrap with a quality electrical tape will have to do. Also solder the front wires once you are sure the thing is hooked up right. i.e. hook up the battery and hit the button. the lock motor is working properly if it is in the up position when all the other doors are unlocked. |
Slip the locking rod over the upper attachment point, (see above) measure how long the rod should be. Be sure the locks and motor are all in either the locked or unlocked position. Mine worked out to be 6 1/2" It is easier to use the flat end with the hole and bend a new end to fit the motor. OK before you put it all back together check it to be sure everything works. If all is OK put it all back together and enjoy. |
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