Here's the final product, doesn't look that much different, but you should see the results at night.  The H-1s with 100W bulbs really light up the road, and the fogs help when the morning fog rolls in here in San Diego.  Adjusting the fog lights is tricky, they are mounted so low.  What I did was drive up to the garage door (make sure your drive is level) and put a long piece of masking tape on the door even with the top of the lights.  I then backed up 25' and adjusted the lights so they were shining just below the tape.  The low mounting is good in that it cuts down on reflected glare when driving in fog, the down side is high curbs and road debris.   I chose the outer bolts for mounting the fog lights as I have moved the AC condenser to allow for more air flow to the intercooler and made a custom scoop for directing the air up into the radiator/intercooler area.
          By an odd coincidence about a week after reading Daniel Stern's excellent
page on lighting a friend of mine gave me a pair of H-1 European high beams (Thanks Clay), about the same time I found a set of under the bumper fog lights on a 240 in the yards.  The next weekend I put together the ultimate lighting package for the 4 headlight system.  As Dan's page explains the small wire in most cars is not up to the task of providing adequate current to power good lighting, see the readings I got on power loss, and ALL the power goes through the switch on the dash, not a good thing for upgraded lights.  Here is a solution using junkyard parts for a total cost in the $20 range. 
I did not include explicit installation directions on this page as it would be redundant after reading Dan's page, if you have any 240T specific questions please use the link at the bottom to email me.
I just did some wiring upgrades to my '88 with good results and
I just added H1s to the 740.

7-29-01, This page is kinda outa date, the turbo now has H-4 high lows (55/65w) and H-2 highs (100w) much better beam pattern on the H-4 than on the stock lamps.
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          Here's a list of parts
1. A set of under bumper fogs
2. H- lights, these are avalible from some auto parts stores.
3. The LH fuse from a 240, cut as much of the wire out on the             donor car as possible
4. The "power rail" from a 240 mounted on the drivers side                  fender by the battery, remove the large relay, keep the             small relay and black buss bar and cover.
5. These small relays are found on the "power bar" of older                  240s and are perfect for lighting, they have 2 15 amp               outputs and are quite robust.
Not shown is the rolls of #12 wire, the flexible cover to protect it and the switches I chose to control the lights (shown below)
          Here's the installation, the 'bar is attached to the fender with small self tapping screws.  The power comes from the
+ terminal of the alternator.
Please note the black flexible covering I used to protect the wires from the alternator to the fuse, (1) this is a good idea on all wires, I just ran out before I took the pics, they are all covered now.
The terminals on the relays are numbered
85= to ground
86= trigger, ie power to switch relay on
30= power from battery, (alternator)
87 &87b = power out to lights.  If your relays have 87 & 87a       they will only power one light each, you will need 2X as           many relays.  Look on the older cars in the yard for the            good relays
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Each light gets its own ground, I used crimp on terminals then soldered the connections after crimping, then covered them with shrink tubing.
The relay for the H-1s receives the signal from a socket for the old lights, a spade terminal was inserted into one of the connectors for the high beams to tell the relay when to switch on.  Tape the connector well to prevent water from getting in or the terminal from falling out.
The relay for the  fogs gets its signal from a switch on the dash, power for the switch comes from the fuse block.

I used Dan's idea of running a "kill" switch on the high beams.  To do this run the wire from the old headlamp socket to a switch on the console (2) then out to the relay.  I pulled the switch from the car that had the under bumper fogs on it, any on/off switch will work. 
For the fog lights I pulled a switch for the rear fogs from a post '86 240 (1).   Power comes from a switched fuse on the block then out to the relay.


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Here's the final product, doesn't look that much different, but you should see the results at night.  The H-1s with 100W bulbs really light up the road, and the fogs help when the morning fog rolls in here in San Diego.  Adjusting the fog lights is tricky, they are mounted so low.  What I did was drive up to the garage door (make sure your drive is level) and put a long piece of masking tape on the door even with the top of the lights.  I then backed up 25' and adjusted the lights so they were shining just below the tape.  The low mounting is good in that it cuts down on reflected glare when driving in fog, the down side is high curbs and road debris.   I chose the outer bolts for mounting the fog lights as I have moved the AC condenser to allow for more air flow to the intercooler and made a custom scoop for directing the air up into the radiator/intercooler area.